Marrakech Morocco's Vibrant Red City

Marrakech was founded in 1070 by the Almoravids, and for centuries it was the seat of empires that reached from the Sahara to southern Spain. The colour that gives it the name Red City comes from the pisé, the packed red earth used to build the ramparts and much of the old town, which glows deeper as the sun drops. THE MEDINA AND JEMAA EL-FNA The medina is a UNESCO World Heritage site and still the heart of the city. At its centre is Jemaa el-Fna, a square that changes character through the day: orange juice carts and snake charmers in the morning, storytellers and musicians by late afternoon, and rows of food stalls with grills going after dark. It is loud, crowded and completely unlike anywhere else in Morocco. The souks spread north from the square in a network of covered lanes, loosely organised by trade. Getting lost is expected and is part of the experience. A rule that helps: the lanes tend to widen as you move towards a main street, so if the passage is narrowing you are heading deeper in. WHAT TO SEE The Koutoubia Mosque is the landmark you will use to orient yourself, its minaret visible from most of the city. Non-Muslims cannot enter, but the gardens around it are open and the building is at its best in the late light. The Bahia Palace, built in the late nineteenth century, is a study in Moroccan craftsmanship: carved cedar ceilings, zellige tilework and quiet courtyards planted with orange trees. The Saadian Tombs, sealed for centuries and rediscovered in 1917, hold the graves of the Saadian dynasty in a chamber of Carrara marble and gilded honeycomb plasterwork. For a break from the noise, the Jardin Majorelle in the newer Gueliz district is a cobalt-blue garden of cacti and bamboo, later owned by Yves Saint Laurent. Go early, as the queues build quickly. WHEN TO GO Spring, from March to May, and autumn, from September to November, are the most comfortable, with warm days and cool evenings. July and August regularly pass 40 degrees, which makes midday sightseeing hard work, though it is a good time for the mountains and the coast. Winter days are mild and clear, and the snow on the Atlas behind the city is at its most striking. GETTING OUT OF THE CITY Much of what makes Marrakech a good base lies outside it. The Agafay stone desert is forty minutes away, the Ourika valley about forty-five, and the Imlil valley at the foot of Toubkal around an hour and a half. The Ouzoud waterfalls and the kasbahs at Ait Ben Haddou are both comfortable day trips. Two or three days in the city and two or three out of it makes for a well-balanced first visit. PRACTICAL NOTES The currency is the dirham and it cannot legally be taken out of the country in quantity, so change what you need. Cash is still king in the medina, though restaurants and larger shops increasingly take cards. Bargaining in the souks is normal and expected; stay good-humoured about it. Dress is relaxed in tourist areas but modest clothing is appreciated, particularly outside the city.